A City That Defies Expectations
I like to think of myself as a local, having moved here from ‘Blighty’ over twenty years ago—although those born here will tell you that only being born here counts. Either way, I’ve had a front-row seat to one of the most extraordinary cities in the world.
Over the years, we’ve hosted countless visits from family and friends from England. Without exception, they fall in love with the place. Cape Town—and South Africa more broadly—has an extraordinary amount to offer. Yet from afar, the perception (often reinforced by the UK press) is that Africa is chaotic and disorganised. The reality might surprise you.
South Africa is the only country to have hosted the football, rugby, cricket, men’s hockey and netball World Cups—and hosted them successfully. It’s also home to these sporting events – which are the largest of their kind on the planet: the Cape Town Cycle Tour (around 33,000 cyclists), the Midmar Mile (roughly 17,500 swimmers), and the Comrades Marathon—an 90km ultra with about 18,000 runners. These are world-class events that run like clockwork, year after year!
So, let’s put aside any outdated notions. Cape Town is not a shambles, the truth is, Cape Town doesn’t just meet expectations, it quietly exceeds them.
So why come?
In a sentence: because there is simply so much to see, do, taste and experience.
Start with Table Mountain. You can hike it, take the cable car, or simply admire it from afar. However you choose to experience it, it dominates the city in the most magnificent way. From the top, the views are breathtaking—ocean, city, mountains—stretching endlessly in every direction.
If you’re feeling adventurous, head to Signal Hill and try tandem paragliding. Floating silently past the face of the mountain and out over the Atlantic before landing on the soft grass next to the Sea Point Promenade is unforgettable. If that sounds a little too bold, the promenade itself is a perfect alternative: a wide, scenic 5.5km path along the ocean, ideal for walking, running, or simply stopping for a coffee or a glass of wine with the waves crashing beside you.
At one end lies the V&A Waterfront, the most visited attraction in Africa. Once a working harbour, it’s now a vibrant, pedestrian-friendly hub of shops, restaurants, museums and experiences. Time Out recently opened one of their food sheds here – a great atmosphere and an amazing choice of street style dishes from many stalls. At the Waterfront you’ll find everything from casual eateries to excellent dining, craft stalls, global luxury brands, a world-class aquarium, and the striking Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa—housed in a converted grain silo.
From the Waterfront, ferries depart to Robben Island for a tour of the prison. The tour is deeply moving. You’ll see the small cell where Nelson Mandela spent 18 years, preserved as it was, and visit the quarry where prisoners were forced to do hard labour under the burning sun. It’s a powerful reminder of the past—and what Mandela achieved in overcoming oppression, to create the rainbow nation – and welcoming whites to join it.
Then there are the beaches. Truly world-class. The Western Cape boasts over 30 Blue Flag beaches. The Atlantic is bracingly cold—but wonderfully refreshing on a hot day. Camps Bay is glamorous and lively, with restaurants and bars lining the beachfront. Blouberg offers postcard views of Table Mountain and is a kitesurfing hotspot. Muizenberg, with its colourful beach huts, is a favourite for surfers. And beyond these are countless quieter stretches waiting to be discovered.
No visit would be complete without exploring the winelands. The Western Cape has more than twenty official wine routes, with Stellenbosch the most famous—and the oldest. The town itself is charming, steeped in history and oak-lined streets. Wine farms range from rustic to ultra-modern, many offering exceptional food alongside tastings. South African wines are among the best in the world—crisp Sauvignon Blancs, and the uniquely local Pinotage among the highlights.
A trip to Cape Point is essential. Often (incorrectly) described as the tip of Africa and the meeting point of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans—that honour belongs to Cape Agulhas—it remains a spectacular destination. The reserve spans around 77 square kilometres of rugged natural beauty. As well as going to the point itself, spend time on one of the lovely small beaches or walk one of the many trials. It’s quite safe. Expect wildlife sightings—ostrich, antelope, and inevitably baboons (best admired at a distance). The cliffs, ocean views and pounding waves are dramatic and unforgettable.
On the way, stop at Boulders Beach to see the colony of African penguins. The boardwalks allow you to get remarkably close, and on nearby stretches of sand, penguins wander freely among visitors—completely at ease.
Further along the route is Kalk Bay, a charming seaside village well worth exploring. Its main street is lined with independent, quirky shops and cafés—refreshingly free of big chains. The working harbour is open to visitors, often with seals lounging next to the harbour wall and fishing boats unloading their catch. For a meal, the Brass Bell is a local institution—set right on the rocks, with waves crashing against the windows. It’s relaxed, slightly shabby in the best way, and great fun. Fish and chips are a must.
And then there’s the food scene. Cape Town has firmly established itself as a global culinary destination. Fine dining options abound—La Colombe in Hout Bay, for example, is consistently ranked among the world’s best. Beyond that, there’s a huge variety of restaurants across the city and winelands. The more adventurous can try traditional dishes like tripe or chicken feet, but most visitors are perfectly happy with outstanding steak and fresh seafood at excellent value. One of my favourite simple pleasures is a Sunday morning visit to the Oranjezicht City Farm Market, excellent coffee and an array of culinary delights to sample and take away.
It would be remiss not to mention safety. South Africa does have a high crime rate, but it is largely concentrated in areas tourists seldom visit. Like any major city, awareness and common sense go a long way. In over twenty years here, my wife and I have never experienced serious crime. Millions of tourists visit Cape Town every year without issue.
Finally—and perhaps most importantly—the people. Capetonians are warm, open and welcoming. We love visitors and showing off our city. Whether you’re on a hiking trail, in a restaurant, or simply asking for directions, you’ll be met with friendliness and a ready smile.
I’ve only scratched the surface, but hopefully this gives you a sense of what makes Cape Town so special.
Words by Michael Stephen
